“One for Buddha, one for father, one for mother, one for Wednesday and one for good luck.”

Someone recently told me, “Shwedagon Pagoda isn’t technically one of the 7 wonders of the world, but it should be!” Agreed.

Shwedagon Pagoda

Shwedagon Pagoda

Our second visit to Shwedagon Pagoda.

Our second visit to Shwedagon Pagoda.

Shwedagon Pagoda is an icon of SE Asia and the Buddhist religion. It has also been symbolic of our move to Myanmar. When I would daydream about life in Asia, Shwedagon was the place I envisioned exploring. It was the place I expected  to fall in love with.

The size alone is striking. You can enter the pagoda from four entrances; North, South, East and West. Each offers a different perspective of the enormous structure and each has a different feeling of grandeur.

Every column at Shwedagon is more beautiful than the next. A lot of them are made out of pure jade, this one is glass mosaic.

Every column at Shwedagon is more beautiful than the next. A lot of them are made out of pure jade, this one is glass mosaic.

Bells like these hang from the umbrella (the top of the stupa). These bells surround the grounds and provide enchanting tunes.

Bells like these hang from the umbrella (the top of the stupa). These bells surround the grounds and provide enchanting tunes.

Entering through the South Gate offers a massive marble staircase with teak ceilings. Vendors line the steps selling flowers,  mala beads, Buddha posters, paper umbrellas, fruit, incense and anything else that could be considered an offering to the thousands of Buddhas and shrines.

Offerings made by locals in a large meditation room.

Offerings made by locals in a large meditation room.

At the top of the stairs awaits many middle aged men in Longyis eager to take you on a tour. For 10,000 kyat (pronounced “chat”) they will show you “all important places” and “all beautiful Buddha.” We decided that seeing “all beautiful Buddha” was very important.

"All beautiful Buddha."

“All beautiful Buddha.”

Myanmar is famous for its Teak. This Buddha is about 4.5 feet tall and made from one solid piece of Teak.

Myanmar is famous for its Teak. This Buddha is about 4.5 feet tall and made from one solid piece of Teak.

The first thing our tour guide wanted to show us was one of the seven shrines that surrounded the golden stupa. He took us to “Wednesday Corner” and asked “What day you born?” Hmmm, well frankly, we weren’t sure so he said, “Okay okay. Wednesday is okay.” He showed us how to take the small tin cup on the edge of the fountain, fill it up with water and then pour it over the head of the Buddha. Each cup full of water that is poured over the shrine has a different meaning, “one for Buddha, one for father, one for mother, one for Wednesday and one for good luck.”

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“One for Buddha, one for father, one for mother, one for Wednesday and one for good luck.”

The structure itself sits on the top of a hill surrounded by hundreds of smaller buildings. Each smaller building is the home to shrines, Buddhas and offerings. In every building, you will find locals meditating, eating,  socializing and texting. The people watching is spectacular.

A monk taking a nap. Lots of naps happen here.

A monk taking a nap. Lots of naps happen here.

Smaller stupas frame the large pagoda.

Smaller stupas frame the large pagoda.

A local man meditating in one of the many rooms at Shwedagon.

A local man meditating in one of the many rooms at Shwedagon.

A little boy squats into prayer position below four golden Buddhas.

A little boy squats into prayer position below four golden Buddhas.

A young couple prays together in front of the Bodhi tree.

A young couple prays together in front of the Banyan tree.

This is a typical contrast. Person praying and person on their smart phone.

This is a typical contrast. Person praying and person on smart phone.

Each time you visit Shwedagon, you will discover something new. It is so large and has  so many nooks and crannies to be discovered. I love finding new rooms that I have not visited and new perspectives that I have not yet discovered.

One of many rooms filled with 15-20 foot tall Buddhas.

One of many rooms filled with 15-20 foot tall Buddhas.

Mala beads and flowers hang in front of many statues.

Mala beads and flowers hang in front of many statues.

A large meditation room. The monk in front is  about to kneel down in front of the LED lit Buddha in the center.

A large meditation room. The monk in front is about to kneel down in front of the LED lit Buddha in the center.

There is so much to learn about this true world wonder. I will continue to go back again and again and open my heart to this incredible place.

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Layers of mold, fish sauce, gasoline and scented soap

In 20 years when we look back on the time that we lived in Myanmar, it will be the smells will bring us back to thrill, the frustration and the excitement of this adventure. The layers of mold, fish sauce, gasoline and scented soap have transformed from striking new stenches to shockingly familiar scents in just one week.

The buildings in Yangon are either very old or very new. They tell the story of these people and this culture. They provide the framework for the luxury, the turmoil and the change this city has gone through. The ubiquity of  vibrant moss and trees growing from the side of six story buildings makes it seem like this city was plopped down in the middle of a jungle. When the city stopped growing, the jungle didn’t. Both the jungle and the people are seeking light through cracks of opportunity.

A vibrant mossy building downtown Yangon.

A vibrant mossy, wet and moldy building, downtown Yangon.

A mossy and moldy building, downtown Yangon.

Inside an old Colonial building. We just happened to walk into this building. There are probably 10 more just like this; old, beautiful, abandoned and in disrepair. The Yangon Heritage Trust is working tirelessly to find gems such as these and restore them to their original beauty.

We wrapped up our first week in Yangon with a day exploring the city. After 3 hours of walking around downtown, we left Bogyoke Aung San Market in a down pour and spent the next 40 minutes in a cab asking ourselves common questions in Myanmar; why do our hands smell like fish sauce? Is the four foot long gas tank behind my head in the trunk totally necessary? Does the cab driver understand where we wanted to be taken? How does every car in this city avoid hitting one another? Where is the closest hospital just in case? Am I going to get sick from all the delicious street food we just ate?

A young woman walking through Bogyoke Aung San Market.

A young woman walking through Bogyoke Aung San Market.

Nuns collect their daily offerings in Bogyoke Aung San Market.

Sule Pagoda.

Sule Pagoda. Yangon is setup around this pagoda. Things will be referred to as “7 mile” or  “6 mile” referring to how far away the destination is from Sule Pagoda.

Street food. They crack a quail egg into a sizzling little hole and then fry it up. 10 for K1000 (about $1.00).

Street food. A quail egg gets cracked into a sizzling little hole and then gets fried up. 10 for K1000 (about $1.00).

Shan Noodle Soup. A traditional dish from the Shan State; vermicelli in a broth with tomatoes, bok choy and meat with varied toppings. Our favorite meal so far!

Shan Noodle Soup. A traditional dish from the Shan State; vermicelli in a broth with tomatoes, bok choy and meat with varied toppings. Our favorite meal so far!

Don't buy the food in the middle of the markets. They are put there so cars can drive down the alley way. Only in Asia!

Don’t buy the food in the middle of the markets. They are put there so cars can drive down the alley way. Only in Asia!

Yangon is so unique. It is exactly what you imagine; old, colonial, moldy, mossy and colorful. It is also so much more than I imagined; there are contemporary and thriving businesses, there is a fast paced beat and it is quickly being built up more and more. There are many new cars on the streets, traffic is abundant, people are holding smart phones everywhere you look and serviced apartments for Westerners are spreading like wildfire. You can go to a licensed Apple retailer in the mall or buy whatever Timberland attire your heart desires.

Yangon has adopted many cranes to complete the skyline.

Yangon has adopted many cranes to complete the skyline.

Rain or shine, light or dark, nothing stops workers from  building.

Rain or shine, light or dark, nothing stops workers from building.

Street life in downtown Yangon.

Street life in downtown Yangon.

A Yangon book store. There was a whole shelf dedicated to Orwell novels.

A Yangon book store. There was a whole shelf dedicated to Orwell novels and a shelf dedicated to Myanmar travel books (outdated ones of course).

A talent show in the middle of Junction Square mall hosted by a skin care line. This mall is fancier than most malls in the States.

A talent show in the middle of Junction Square mall hosted by a skin care line. This mall is fancier than most malls in the States.

It is fascinating to watch this place transform from a society stuck in time to a modern day thriving city. It has a long way to go, but we feel so lucky to be here to watch these people and this country embrace the old, welcome the new and thrive.