Layers of mold, fish sauce, gasoline and scented soap

In 20 years when we look back on the time that we lived in Myanmar, it will be the smells will bring us back to thrill, the frustration and the excitement of this adventure. The layers of mold, fish sauce, gasoline and scented soap have transformed from striking new stenches to shockingly familiar scents in just one week.

The buildings in Yangon are either very old or very new. They tell the story of these people and this culture. They provide the framework for the luxury, the turmoil and the change this city has gone through. The ubiquity of  vibrant moss and trees growing from the side of six story buildings makes it seem like this city was plopped down in the middle of a jungle. When the city stopped growing, the jungle didn’t. Both the jungle and the people are seeking light through cracks of opportunity.

A vibrant mossy building downtown Yangon.

A vibrant mossy, wet and moldy building, downtown Yangon.

A mossy and moldy building, downtown Yangon.

Inside an old Colonial building. We just happened to walk into this building. There are probably 10 more just like this; old, beautiful, abandoned and in disrepair. The Yangon Heritage Trust is working tirelessly to find gems such as these and restore them to their original beauty.

We wrapped up our first week in Yangon with a day exploring the city. After 3 hours of walking around downtown, we left Bogyoke Aung San Market in a down pour and spent the next 40 minutes in a cab asking ourselves common questions in Myanmar; why do our hands smell like fish sauce? Is the four foot long gas tank behind my head in the trunk totally necessary? Does the cab driver understand where we wanted to be taken? How does every car in this city avoid hitting one another? Where is the closest hospital just in case? Am I going to get sick from all the delicious street food we just ate?

A young woman walking through Bogyoke Aung San Market.

A young woman walking through Bogyoke Aung San Market.

Nuns collect their daily offerings in Bogyoke Aung San Market.

Sule Pagoda.

Sule Pagoda. Yangon is setup around this pagoda. Things will be referred to as “7 mile” or  “6 mile” referring to how far away the destination is from Sule Pagoda.

Street food. They crack a quail egg into a sizzling little hole and then fry it up. 10 for K1000 (about $1.00).

Street food. A quail egg gets cracked into a sizzling little hole and then gets fried up. 10 for K1000 (about $1.00).

Shan Noodle Soup. A traditional dish from the Shan State; vermicelli in a broth with tomatoes, bok choy and meat with varied toppings. Our favorite meal so far!

Shan Noodle Soup. A traditional dish from the Shan State; vermicelli in a broth with tomatoes, bok choy and meat with varied toppings. Our favorite meal so far!

Don't buy the food in the middle of the markets. They are put there so cars can drive down the alley way. Only in Asia!

Don’t buy the food in the middle of the markets. They are put there so cars can drive down the alley way. Only in Asia!

Yangon is so unique. It is exactly what you imagine; old, colonial, moldy, mossy and colorful. It is also so much more than I imagined; there are contemporary and thriving businesses, there is a fast paced beat and it is quickly being built up more and more. There are many new cars on the streets, traffic is abundant, people are holding smart phones everywhere you look and serviced apartments for Westerners are spreading like wildfire. You can go to a licensed Apple retailer in the mall or buy whatever Timberland attire your heart desires.

Yangon has adopted many cranes to complete the skyline.

Yangon has adopted many cranes to complete the skyline.

Rain or shine, light or dark, nothing stops workers from  building.

Rain or shine, light or dark, nothing stops workers from building.

Street life in downtown Yangon.

Street life in downtown Yangon.

A Yangon book store. There was a whole shelf dedicated to Orwell novels.

A Yangon book store. There was a whole shelf dedicated to Orwell novels and a shelf dedicated to Myanmar travel books (outdated ones of course).

A talent show in the middle of Junction Square mall hosted by a skin care line. This mall is fancier than most malls in the States.

A talent show in the middle of Junction Square mall hosted by a skin care line. This mall is fancier than most malls in the States.

It is fascinating to watch this place transform from a society stuck in time to a modern day thriving city. It has a long way to go, but we feel so lucky to be here to watch these people and this country embrace the old, welcome the new and thrive.

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